Cuisine: Modern Australian

This place looks like an elegant pop-up (it isn’t) in a corner of the vast Carriageworks complex behind the Eveleigh Market. It’s stark white with black-and-white striped benches and plump Marimekko cushions, but with food this good it could be in a tent and we’d come. The menu is classic John Wilson, caterer extraordinaire (with help from chef David Lovett). Start with a fat boiled globe artichoke with lemon mayo $12 for two or more. A main of mackerel with batons of blanched kohlrabi, olives and lemon $30 is superbly simple and perfectly cooked, as is milk-cooked pork neck with curds on desiree mash $32. Strawberries macerated in mint, lime and raw sugar makes a refreshing finale. Punches above its weight. Saturday plan: shop at Eveleigh, lunch here, go home smiling.

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