Cuisine: Italian

This Concord fixture is a good-looking family-friendly and family-run (the Dallesandros) tratt, which spills out onto the main drag of Concord. There’s nothing special about the offerings, which are pretty standard Italian fare, from pizza to pasta, from gnocchi to gamberoni, but there’s something about the way it’s prepared and served and the feeling of the place that is infectious. A little starter of black mussels in wine, tomato, garlic and chilli $16 is as good a way as any of getting into it. There are 19 pizza options (baked on the stone), from bianca $10 to cassareccia $18.50, and more substantial mains such as lamb cutlets in port, red wine and rosemary $24. This could be the little Italian local you’ve been looking for.

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