July 2010

Fans of suckling pig will be pleased to know Giovanni Pilu’s newish little venture, Pilu Kiosk next to the big Pilu, serves panini filled with the stuff. There’s also apple mustard mayonnaise and rocket with it. At big Pilu it’s served with a bright mustard seed-studded salsa verde and a few slices of aniseedy suckling pig sausage. What’s not to like?

In a very wintry dish, Blancmange pairs roast leg Mandagery Creek venison with braised red cabbage, eschalots, carrot puree, enoki mushrooms and chestnut persillade. There’s a port and clove jus with it just for good measure.

Goat’s always a good choice, particularly at subcontinental eateries, because it responds well to currying. Try it in the biryani at Hyderabad House (21 Hassall St Parramatta, Ph 9635 9577). They braise the meat first then assemble the biryani in the dum style, tightly sealed in a pot to allow the spices and juices to penetrate the layered rice.

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