October 2009

If you’re palate is really, really finely tuned you’ll be able to taste the sweet spring grasses in the grass-fed beef in the grilled hanger steak served with sweet and sour garlic, anchovies and raisins at Bird Cow Fish. You might also find sirloin of Cape Grim beef from Tasmania served with Montpelier butter (a very complicated herb butter best eaten at a restaurant as you’d never make it at home).

Over at Bistro Ortolan, Paul McGrath is doing wonderful things with new-season suckling pigs, a real porkivore’s treat: pressed, crisped, confited legs accompanied by a crepinette of the braised head flesh with crisp pig’s ears, wild French mushrooms and a Jerusalem artichoke veloute. Don’t knock the crisp pig’s ears — they serve them as a tapa in Rioja in Spain. Why waste ’em?

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