September 2011

Come spring, a food lover’s thoughts turn to lamb. But remember: the best milk-fed come through at the end of October, so ask your butcher for hogget shoulders until then — delicious if you’re reading this in September. You can still find some good two-tooth shoulders as well — ask your butcher.

Pork doesn’t really have a season, but our meat provedore reminds us  — so we’ll pass it on — that sows from outdoor growers — organic, Humane Choice and Bred Free Range — only drop two litters a year as opposed to the 2.35-2.5 a year for piggery pigs, which means the free-range sows live longer. And free-range pork tastes undeniably better.

At Pilu in Freshwater (end of Moore Road, Freshwater, Ph 9938 3331) Giovanni Pilu has recently changed over to outdoor-bred pork for his signature roast suckling pig, and he and his customers are very happy with the results. He serves it with a mostardo of oranges, a little salsa verde and sliced baked apples.

Up in his new lair, Xanthi, (Westfield, Pitt Street, Sydney, Ph 9282 8535) David Tsirekis is slow-roasting not lamb, but two-tooth sheep — hoggets — over specially designed ceramic plates which imitate the heat that radiates from charcoal (which would set off the elaborate sprinkler systems!). The last sheep he took delivery of was 28kg and it cooked from 8am to 10pm, basting in its own fat — choose 250g or 500g servings. He’ll change over to lamb when the good stuff arrives.


Thanks to Grant Hilliard of Feather & Bone 

Article Tags: Meathoggetlamb

Meat, hogget, lamb
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