July 2010

We may be in the dead of winter but strawberries from Queensland, where they barely know the meaning of the word “winter”, are very much in evidence. You’ll find them at Chez Pascal in fraises fondue, sautéed in butter with sugar and Grand Marnier. Apples are peaking now, so crepe normande, also at that Sans Souci institution, might be more popular than ever. It’s a caramelised apple pancake with Calvados (apple brandy) and it’s served unadorned, as tradition dictates. We dare you to ask for icecream with it.

Bistrode teams those apples with the last of the season’s quinces in a crumble it serves with custard.  There’s a good variety of pears around now, too, and they use the beurre bosc variety in a salad with witlof, walnuts and blue cheese for an entrée.

Citrus fruits, except limes, are everywhere. Lemons are whipped into a lemon curd pudding at Bistrode. Keeping things simple at Pilu, the chefs make a lemon tagliolini to serve with clams and bottarga.

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