August 2009

There’s not a huge difference in the fruit scene between last month and this: the big players are still Queensland strawberries, apples, pears, citrus and rhubarb. Down at Selah they’re poaching rhubarb for a filo tart that includes marshmallow and custard and comes with pistachio and vanilla icecream.

Oranges are staggeringly cheap and one of the best ways to have them is simply juiced. It might not be rocket science, but they do a fine juice at Kelby’s, the perfect thing to wash down one of their big brekkies. Pears add some sweet balance to a fennel, rocket and pecorino salad at Deus Café, where the food’s as tempting as the gleaming motorbikes sharing the space.

The new Pyrmont baby in the Ripples empire (56 Pirrama Rd, Ph 9571 1999) is making the most of winter’s apples with their tarte tatin, paired simply with vanilla bean icecream. And pears show up in their almond bread, part of the cheese course with brie and muscatels.

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