February 2010

Certain snapper love warm summer waters and now’s the time to eat the gold band variety. Even though they have a new head chef, it seems The Boathouse still has its famous snapper pie on the menu. That’s probably a good thing — a mutiny is never pretty.

Although Atlantic salmon’s available year round, it peaks from October through to April, so it’s good right now. Don’t let it choof past on the Sushi Train (316 King St, Newtown, Ph 9557 4435) where thin slices are draped across warm sushi rice. Alio chargrills a fillet and serves it with a stuffed zucchini flower, asparagus and anchovy and rosemary dressing.

Mud crabs are in now, too, and they make a fine, messy feast at Palace Chinese (Shop 38 Level 1, Piccadilly Tower, 133–145 Castlereagh St, Sydney, Ph 9283 6288) with chilli and XO sauce. Ditto blue swimmer crabs. Try them at Deus ex Machina for dinner in an entrée where they’re worked into a tart and served with radish salad and shellfish cream.

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