June 2009

Cooler waters mean some fish supplies dive, but we’re lucky to have the trusty New Zealanders to keep us from starving. There’s snapper in various sizes from across the ditch as well as bass groper, which they’re serving at Restaurant Arras meuniere-style (browned butter, chopped parsley and lemon) with new-season sea greens and Hawkesbury calamari. Speaking of local calamari, that modern Greek CBD hotspot, Medusa, is flouring and frying it and serving it with dill-spiked aioli and a wedge of lemon. It’s fantastic.

The bucketing rain we’ve had in the past month has been good for prawns and the local industry has risen to meet demand from punters who prefer Aussie to imports (all of us?). Those curled crustaceans found lurking in the smoky char kway teow at Temasek are fat, sweet and juicy. And at Bijolias they’re marinated with green peppercorns, fennel and other spices, pan fried and served with cucumber and apple chat.

There’s nothing oyster-wise from the north coast at this time of year, but the south coast is still producing. As ever, they’re a good bet at Bayswater Brasserie served freshly shucked and natural with a Brasserie baguette and butter. Drizzle a bit of red wine and shallot vinaigrette over them if tang’s the order of the day.

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