May 2009

Cooler waters equal better fish and as winter approaches variety and quality of species will improve. The humble flathead, which nowadays commands designer seafood prices, is still a winner, especially for fish and chips. The Sydney Fish Market says it’s expensive because it’s “low yield”, meaning you don’t get much flesh in relation to bone when it’s filleted, but its anatomy hasn’t changed and it used to be cheap. Go figure. Fine Fish is using it for fish and chips now and enhancing its appeal with mushy peas, hand-cut chips and tartare sauce. Crumbed fillets of red spot or eastern school whiting get subcontinental accompaniments of brinjal (eggplant) pickle and dhal. And the ever-reliable farmed Humpty Doo barramundi is teamed with pureed Jerusalem artichoke and caponata.

Rainbow trout from Tumut are plump at this time of year, so The Smokehouse is, you guessed it, smoking them. Stephen de Launay is also making the most of the cheap limes, which he’s preserving and turning into a relish to go with the trout.

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