Hats off?

October 2009

Now, I’m not usually one to criticise other critical organisations, but this time I’m a little mystified. In the latest edition of the Good Food Guide, Glebe Point Diner (407 Glebe Point Road, Ph 9660 2646), which won our Bent Fork Award in 2008, lost its hat. Fair enough, they put them on — they can take them off. But when you read the review, you wonder why. The anonymous reviewer (isn’t that a rarity these days?) tells us: “There’s much to love about Glebe Point Diner’”and goes on say “the food is great…”, that chef Alex Kearns provides “strong, unapologetically earthy flavours” that “the restaurant is hitting its straps” and that the service arrives via “cheerfully efficient waiters”. So why the hat pull? Could it have been the one dull spot, a vegetarian lasagne that “lacked pizzazz”? The little bowl of fried Spencer Gulf squid with aioli I had the other day for lunch was superb. The reviewer was right. The hat-puller wrong. Don’t desert a really good joint.

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