Food Palace

March 2010

ignorelli Gastronomia (48 Pirrama Road Darling Island Wharf Ph 8571 0616) opened late last month in Pyrmont and it sells — everything. The motto is: EAT.DRINK.SHOP.COOK. It’s a deli/butcher/cheese shop/wine cellar/café/pizzeria and it’s in the new Doltone House, a function centre owned by the Signorelli family which is, in itself, something of a landmark building, being Sydney’s first six-star (in environmental terms) building. But what about the food?

I had a couple of problems. First, the meat, all Cry-o-vacced, was not adequately labelled. No indication whether it was grain-fed, pasture-fed, aged for how long — they promised it’d be fixed. And the cheese room is small but well-stocked with good-looking (mainly Italian) cheeses; while cool enough, it felt a bit dry. Left too long like that, the cheeses crack and run downhill.

To be fair, it had only been open about three weeks when I visited. By now, they should have sorted it. If it gets up and running, it’ll be a terrific addition to the inner west.

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